Time's Makin' Changes: Stingray Special pt.2

Just over one year ago, I went through a major change in my gear collection.  All my P-Bass-type basses were sold off to fund a brand new Stingray Special, and shortly thereafter I returned it for the chance to own my "dream bass"-- a Rickenbacker 4003 (two to be exact).  

Enjoying the Fireglow!

At first I gladly accepted the quirks of the Ricky: its antique bridge, wide but shallow neck shape, neck dive, bubbling paint, stubby tuning posts, sharp body edges, and yes-- that large cover over the bridge pickup.  On stage it was a struggle to keep the pickup noise at bay and the instruments weight was... weighing on my nerves.  But damn, the things look fantastic!

Most of those quirks can be addressed with aftermarket parts, but I didn't really want to spend more money (on two basses) to do so. 

Hello Baaaby!

At the very time I was seriously considering what to do about the Ricks, I discovered that our local shop had a new Stingray Special in stock-- AND it was the very color I was unable to find last year-- Aqua Sparkle! 

The next day I took both Ricks to our local shop and promptly secured my new Aqua Sparkle Stingray Special, which features a very dark ebony fingerboard and black hardware.  

Most of us who've sold or traded away instruments have experienced "buyers remorse" of some kind.  Meaning, you have a certain level of regret letting go of something which you were once very excited about.  This time I don't have any whatsoever.  Is it because I'm getting older and understand/ have accepted that tastes change over time?  Maybe.  Probably, yes.  

The opposite of plug & play, pedalboard ver.2

Adding to that, I find myself seeking to simplify my life, which extends to my bass playing & collecting.  For example, I was getting quite frustrated by the Rickenbacker's stereo output option, i.e. "Rick-O-Sound."  This is a feature which allows the player to send two independent pickup signals from the bass to different amps, effects, etc.  Using the Radial "BassBone" and a handful of effects I spent hours, days, weeks trying to find a useful combination that I could access quickly.  It just never happened.  What it did accomplish however, was to consistently grow frustration with the entire endeavor... and reinforce the desire to return to a simple plug & play philosophy.  

An air-tight neck pocket

Specs and my review for the new Stingray Special can be found HERE though this new bass has a few differences.  The fingerboard on this one is a very dark ebony, on which the white side position markers stand out brilliantly.  On maple fingerboard SRs' the black markers on a dark roasted maple neck were difficult to see in low lighting.  Fit and finish on this particular instrument is better than the previous-- specifically the neck pocket fitment is tight as can be.  This one also feels to be noticeably more open and lively than the last; in the neck position I find a lot of useful tones whereas the previous seemed rather dark and difficult to use.  This is to say that this instrument speaks to me in a way the other didn't.  Both were fine instruments, but this one I have bonded with right away.

A finish with a rich heritage 

Lastly, the finish.  That wonderful  sparkly blue manipulator of light has long been my dream finish.  I've come close a few times, once with a G&L JB 5-string (where I discovered that the B string simply gets in my way) and that time my wife bought a teal-sparkle Telecaster, but never finding mine-- until now!  The Stingray Special Aqua Sparkle is my new #1, and I don't even care that I traded two beautiful Rickenbackers to obtain it(!)

Driving an old 1960s Dodge Charger is an experience everyone should have at least once in their lives.  It's fun, it's physically demanding and a true joy; much like the Rickenbacker 4003. Living with one as a daily driver however, well that's something else entirely.  In the end, I'm thankful to have had the last year with two beautiful Rick basses, but the time has come to pass that joy to someone else, while I enjoy the comfort and luxury of my new, modern bass... It's nice to be home!

...Stay tuned & in tune!

Gear Review: Installing Strap Locks the Right Way

Many guitar and bass companies skimp on the strap buttons on their instruments.  

G&L, Music Man have excellent strap buttons stock.  both feature wide tops that can be a bit of a pain when initially installing your favorite strap, but that minor inconvenience is what insures your instrument will not easily free itself from said strap.

For most other companies the strap button is an afterthought; a cheap, tiny, weaker than plastic pot-metal alloy.  If you have invested more than $20 on an instrument, you should consider replacing those buttons-- and most who do choose strap locks.

Today, there are many different versions of strap locks on the market, but there are two companies that stand out, and are very popular: Schaller and Dunlop.

Schaller Vs. Dunlop

Schaller's new "S"-type locks

Both do an excellent job securing your strap to the instrument.  Which one you choose depends on personal preference.  Schaller units have a very narrow, grooved button that mounts to the instrument onto which a "U" shaped strap mounted clasp attaches to.  A great design for those who will only use that specific strap with the locking device already attached.  However, if you like to use different straps, or perhaps you forgot your's and have to borrow one without the locking device, your instrument will be far less secure.

Dunlop approaches things much differently.  While the company has offered different interpretations of its strap lock design, the most common is the "Dual Design" which functions both as a locking unit, or as a standard, wide top strap button.  The user has the ability to use any strap with or without the locking device, AND the lock can be used without even being attached to the strap, which is how I often use them.

Which One and Why?

Dunlop's "Dual-Design" locks

On occasion an instrument comes from the factory with Schallers as did my Rickenbackers.  Shortly after taking delivery of my Ric, I bought the newly released "S-model" Schaller strap locks which feature an updated version of the strap portion.  These are nice, but I still had problems with the locking portion on the strap loosening up-- even with the new design that incorporates a set screw.  After a year of using them I was going to add a dab of Locktite to keep things in place, but then I'd have to buy additional sets for my other straps... at which point I decided to replace those with Dunlops.

Having used both systems over the years, the Dunlops are my favorite.  They are simple to use and as mentioned, can be used without the locking unit when needed.  However, the two companies use different sized screws to mount to the instrument-- this can be a serious pain in one's posterior! 

(L-R) Dunlop, G&L/MusicMan, Fender

Installation
Sometimes you will get lucky and find that the stock buttons were secured with a narrow-shanked screw, smaller than that provided with your new strap locks. If so, all you have to do is remove the old and replace with the new buttons via their larger screws.

Inevitably there will be times when the hole left behind from the stock screws is too large for the new buttons.  It may also be that you find yourself with a guitar where the buttons have been yanked from the body, and you need to repair the stripped out hole.  

Two Primary Methods 

1. Toothpicks.  This is the go-to method for a lot of people who want the cheapest, easiest solution possible, or for those without woodworking experience.  The toothpicks fill the void and provide the desired screw something to bite into.  On occasion people use glue with the toothpicks.  This method works, and is a useful, temporary fix.

$0.75 four-foot long dowel 

2. Dowels.  This is the preferred method for luthiers as it is a far more secure solution, but requires the time, tools, and maybe a little nerve for non-luthiers to accomplish.  Having a bit of woodworking experience, and just enough nerve, I chose this route for my Rickenbackers.  And to be honest, the task is actually quite easy and inexpensive to accomplish.

- Step 1. Determine the size of the hole and source a corresponding sized dowel (I got mine from Lowe's for $0.75).  In some cases it may be necessary to drill out the existing hole in order to create a specific size (usually when the original hole was damaged).

- Step 2. Add a woodworking glue ("Titebond II" is my favorite) and the dowel.  Allow 30-min to dry.  Note: wood dowels tend to slightly vary in size. This required a little sanding for proper fit.

- Step 3. Trim the dowel flush to the body.  
Here you see I used a razor blade; no special tools needed.  However, if you have access to one, a Japanese pull saw will save you the trouble of sanding flush any portion of the dowel that isn't flush.  Again though, the job can be done with a simple razorblade and a measure of patience.  

-Step 4. With a steady hand, drill a pilot hole into the newly installed dowel. The hole should be slightly narrower than the diameter of the screw you will be using.  Now you simply screw in the new strap pin.  That's all there is to it!

- Step 5.  Optional. To provide protection between the wood body & the metal strap pin, I cut a small circle of felt to fit in-between.  This little piece of material also fills the gap, hiding the fact that the wide base of the new strap button overhangs the body slightly.  The 8x10-inch section of felt cost just over one dollar from our local craft store-- which also sells wooden dowels(!) so I could have saved myself a trip to the hardware store had I gone here first.  And being that you only need a small section of the material, you have a lot of room for trial and error.

-Step 6.  Enjoy! Spending the extra time and effort will give you a sense of accomplishment that far exceeds the toothpick method. And you have the added assurance that the button is as secure-- or more so-- than it was when the instrument first left the factory.   

Until next time...

 ....stay tuned and in tune!

Gear Review: Rickenbacker 4003; The '68 Dodge Charger of Basses...

It's been nearly a year since returning the new Stingray Special, and I've spent all that time with my dream bass, the Rickenbacker 4003.  

Actually, I ended up buying a pair; one in my favorite, now discontinued (in 2019) finish called Midnight Blue, and a second in the classic Fireglo (sunburst) finish.  Why two? Mainly because I always try having a backup to my primary instrument.  Thankfully, I found a few fantastic dealers that tend to have a good stock of Ric's, and at very reasonable prices.

Problems?
What took me so long to try what I've long regarded as my dream bass?  There have been a lot of stories about the Ric bass being a fussy, high-maintenance instrument, and the recent arrival of internet bass forums served to amplify those stories.  Then, in June 2017 I actually got my hands on one for the first time and was not thrilled with the in-stock example at a local big-box-store.  

Turns out that most of those problem stories concern versions made in the 1970s and 1980s, which have different truss rods than the modern versions.  Anyway, there comes a time when you have to put things in their proper perspective, go with your gut and give it a try-- which I'm SOOOoooo glad I did!  Theses modern 4003 basses still have two truss rods, but they function like any other bass, without the quirks of the earlier versions.  

Buying Online 
Each of these instruments came from different US dealers.  First, the Midnight Blue model came from Dave's Guitar Shop in Wisconsin.  The Fireglo came from a shop in Colorado called Wildwood.  Both business have reputations for making sure their instruments are shipped in premium condition, with the customers chosen strings & gauges.  Each arrived in SBK-type plastic fitted cases, packed in stout boxes intended to protect the instrument during shipping.  

Setups on both were dead-on; far and away better than that first Ric I played back in 2017.  The only thing I had to change was the strap-buttons, as my problems with Schaller straps-locks continue-- but that's a story for another time.  A few hours with the basses in my workshop resulted in a happy upgrade to Dunlop buttons.  

Why Such A "Primitive" Bass?
So what is it about the Ric that is so appealing?  About 37 years ago I watched the Rush concert video, "Exit Stage Left" and was mesmerized by Geddy Lee's playing.  Watching Ged with his Ric is what sparked my desire to become a musician before I even knew the difference between a guitar and a bass.  Those kind of things stick with a person, as marketing departments are keenly aware. 

More recently I discovered a fantastic band that rekindled my desire for a Ric; Clatter, is a heavily groovy, two-piece melodic powerhouse featuring Amy Humphrey on bass.  Have a listen to their tunes (then buy an album or two), and tell me if you can resist wanting to sample a Rickenbacker bass for yourself(!) 

How Does It Play?
To be perfectly honest, it isn't a great deal different than any other bass; aside from it's unique tone, the differences are in the details.  The neck feels about as wide as a modern Fender P-bass, but with thick rolled shoulders and slightly shallow (flatter) in the back.  It is a very comfortable neck.  Many people hate anything that isn't as slim as possible, but what they fail to consider is this bass is different. Not better, not worse.  The neck is beautifully bound much like a Les Paul, and with its medium jumbo frets, I'm reminded of playing those old clunky guitars, which have become so popular many years after conception.  

Tuning pegs hold position well and are easy to operate.  Its dual pickups are straightforward, with simple controls and a 3-way pickup selector and a push-pull knob that removes some bass tones for a more classic sounding Ric bass.  There are two output options: the standard mono, and a very useful stereo output.  Being able to split the signal enables you to simultaneously run your one base through two independent amps, and adding effects without loosing the fundamental bass tones.  It's a fantastic idea!  A great example of this option in use is Clatter-- check out their Youtube page for more details, as Amy makes good use of that feature.

The 4003 body is slim, light and well balanced with no neck-dive in either of the two I have.  It's bridge is a bit of a pain to set, but works great once it's dialed in.  There is a cover over the bridge pickup which I am thankful for, however, most people remove it because... well I really have no idea; they are likely just following orders from the internet.  That cover provides a comfortable place to rest my hand, and provides a string reference-- perfect!  

Downsides?
Ric changed its finishing method some years ago to comply with California's strict environmental codes, which has created some slight problems.  Some claim that the finish is very delicate, which I agree with when compared to a thick polyurethane finish.  The Ric finish is easily chipped when bumping into a drummers cymbals, a music stand, or the tip of a misdirected output cable.  While in production, the hardware can be over tightened which on occasion creates a bubble in the finish around the overtightened bit.  My blue 4003 has this problem along a small section of the bridge.  However, it has not created any problems, and has not chipped away, or gotten worse.  Again, internet warriors have made much noise about the finish on bass forums.  Strangely, I've not heard of the guitars having this problem-- only basses.  It is something to be aware of, but has absolutely no affect on the instrument, or my playing.  

In short, the Ric 4003 is an excellent classic instrument.  It is a unique design, and not intended to be like anything else.  "Classic" is an appropriate descriptor as that is what you are getting; an old design that's been very lightly updated and tweaked since its inception.  There are other basses available that play easier, sound louder, weigh less, and cost less to buy.  However, you won't easily find a bass that is more fun to play, or one that looks as cool as a Ric 4003.  As for cost, a little research will save the prospective buyer A LOT of money on both the new and used market.

Why A '68 Dodge Charger?
In the previous post, I used an analogy to equate a Music Man Stingray Special with a new Lincoln Town Car, and the replacement instrument to a 1968 Dodge Charger.  Having driven both cars, the comparison seems appropriate; the Dodge takes more effort than the Lincoln to drive well, as it is with the basses.  

The Music Man is very modern, with its 18v battery power, stainless steel frets, roasted neck, etc.  By comparison, the Rickenbacker requires more effort to play as well, with its larger neck, clunky dimensions, limited range passive pickups and less comfortable body shape.  Just as the Dodge is far more rewarding to drive, so is the Rickenbacker bass to play.  The two also produce similar sounds: deep, low, and rumble with authority.  It truly is a special instrument, quirks and all...

Now about those strap buttons....

...Stay tuned & in tune!